Island Peak Climbing is synonym for peak climbing in Nepal. This is famous climbing peak for beginners. At elevation of 6189 m, it had two general climbing routes. It is located in Chukung, Solukhumbu. The two approach routes to the summit are southwest and north ridge route. North route is somewhat difficult than southeast ridge route.

  • North Ridge Route – PD
  • South Ridge Route – PD +

It required additional four to five days from regular thirteen days Lukla to Everest Base Camp Trek. You will need a climbing permit issued by NMA.

Update Nov 2015: Now the permit might be issued by immigration department of Nepal. There is a case ongoing in the court.

Also, Sagarmatha National Park Entry permits is needed. TIMS card is not needed for you after obtaining the climbing permits. Few people set high camp in between Base Camp and Summit during the climb. Most people they climb in one day from the Island Peak Base Camp.

Island peak everest

Necessary permits for Island Peak

  • Island Peak Climbing Permit
  • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

Permit cost was recently revised. Here is a link for the new permit cost. It was sharable among the trekkers before. Now individual permits should be issued for the climb. Still you can share the guide cost for the climb. There is a big warehouse in Dingboche and Chukung for renting necessary gears. You can independently trek Everest Base Camp and buy guided expedition packages for five days starting and ending in Dingboche. There is no teahouse in base camp.

Island Peak Climbing Itinerary

Island Peak South East Ridge Climbing Route

  • Acclimatization and training days in Island Peak Base Camp
  • Island Peak Base Camp to Southern Camp I (5 hrs ascend)
  • Southern Camp I to summit of Island Peak (4 hrs ascend)
  • Island Peak summit to Island Peak Base Camp (4.5 hrs descend)

Island Peak North Ridge Climbing Route

  • Acclimatization and training day in Island Peak Base camp
  • Island Peak Base Camp to North Island Peak High Camp (6 hrs ascend)
  • North Island Peak High Camp to summit of Island Peak (4 hrs ascend)
  • Island Peak summit to Island Peak Base Camp (4.5 hrs ascend)

Here is a link to outline map for Island Peak Climbing Route. Thanks to Himalayan Map House for online map. Make sure you had a valid travel insurance covering this climb. There are many alternative trekking options to reach Dingboche. Check general itinerary overview. It is best climbed in fall and spring. Unlike famous expedition peak very few people go for winter adventure.

Island Peak Best Climbing Time

  • October and November
  • April and May

Oxygen percentage decrease with increase in elevation. At the elevation of 6189 m from sea level oxygen percent is supposed to be 45 %. Here is a oxygen chart below with the relative oxygen percent with altitude.

Altitude Oxygen Rate
In meter In feet
8850 29,035 33 %
8000 26,247 36 %
7000 22,966 41 %
6000 19,865 47 %
5500 18,045 50 %
5200 17,061 52 %
5000 16,404 53 %
4500 14,764 57 %
4000 13,123 60 %
3500 11,483 64 %
3000 9,843 68 %
2500 8,202 73 %
1000 3,281 88 %
Sea Level 100 %

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Top 10 facts about Island Peak

  • Located close east of Mount Everest Base Camp Trekking Trail
  • Non technical trekking peak of Nepal
  • Two climbing routes to summit, South West Ridge and North Ridge
  • Climbing difficulty PD for SW Ridge and PD+ for N Ridge
  • Elevation of the summit is 6189 m
  • Elevation of the basecamp is 4979 m
  • Oxygen level at summit of Island Peak 45 %
  • First ascended in 1953 via SW Ridge
  • First ascended in 1958 via N Ridge
  • Listed in open peak for climbing Nepal Mountaineering Association List