Often known as the Matterhorn of the Himalayas, Ama Dablam is the real test of endurance even for the veteran climbers! It is an outstanding climbing peak in Nepal. It is more technical climb than Everest. The main summit of Ama Dablam is 6812 m and subsidiary west peak is 6170 m. It is extremely difficult climb.
- Alpine Grade – TD+
It requires minimum of two weeks from regular Everest Base Camp Trek Itinerary. Special climbing permits is needed. Also Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit is needed. TIMS card is not needed. Liaison officer are supposed to inspect the climb from base camp. High acclimatization and fitness level is required.
Necessary Permits for Ama Dablam Expedition
- Ama Dablam Expedition Permit
- Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
Permit cost is different than NMA climbing peak. It can be shared among the climbers. Here is the permit detail for Ama Dablam.
Permit cost for Ama Dablam
|Member of Expedition||Royalty In USD|
|Spring / Autumn||Winter / Summer|
Note: Maximum number of people in one group is 15. If exceeded then two separate groups are needed.
Ama Dablam Expedition Review
From Steven Shrader
“The climb feels like a 5.8 – 5.9 depending on conditions (Steve has summited 3 times guiding) but it’s really hard to say because I (Steve) have always worn plastic boots, and all the climbing is above 6000M. I would have to recommend allowing 5 weeks for this expedition, taking into consideration bad weather, sickness, and multiple summit attempts.”
From Alan Ellis –
“It’s common to encounter high altitude Everest veterans having problems with the technical difficulties encountered on the crux pitches of this (Ama Dablam) climb.”
There is no fix itinerary like trekking peak for the Ama Dablam. This is because climbing period is long, multiple up and down is needed in between the multiple camps. Normally three camps are set, i.e Camp I, Camp II and Camp III. This mountain is best climbed in fall and spring.
Ama Dablam Best Expedition Time
- October to November
- April to Mid of May
Here is a table below representing the composition of oxygen in different elevations. You can also download the chart if you found it useful.
|In meter||In feet|
|Sea Level||100 %|
Top 10 Facts About Mount Ama Dablam
- Located close south of Everest Trail
- Most beautiful and challenging climb
- Open climbing peak, doesn’t belong to NMA
- First summited by group of climbers on 1961 13th March
- Main summit measure 6812 m and lower west summit measure 6170 m
- Ama Dablam Base Camp measure 4650 m from sea level
- Southeast ridge is generally used for expedition
- Camp II and Camp III set during expedition are considered as most beautiful campsite
- Oxygen level present at summit of Ama Dablam range between 41 – 43 %
- Changing mountain, totally different view from different place